If you're focusing specifically on germination — getting the seed to sprout — here’s a breakdown of the best methods to ensure high success:
Best for: Fast germinators (e.g., tomatoes, peppers, beans, herbs)
Moisten a paper towel (damp, not dripping).
Place seeds on half, fold the other half over them.
Put the towel in a plastic ziplock bag or covered container.
Label and place somewhere warm (65–75°F / 18–24°C).
Check daily for sprouts (usually in 2–10 days).
You can monitor progress.
No wasted soil on duds.
Speeds up difficult germinators.
You must transplant carefully once sprouted.
Best for: Seeds that don’t like transplanting (e.g., cucumbers, melons, root crops)
Use seed-starting mix in trays, pots, or cells.
Sow at correct depth.
Mist or bottom water to keep evenly moist.
Cover with a humidity dome or plastic until sprouted.
Provide warmth (heat mat if needed).
Best for: Hard-coated seeds (e.g., peas, beets, beans)
Soak in warm water for 8–12 hours (not more than 24).
Plant immediately after soaking.
Best for: Very hard seeds (e.g., nasturtiums, morning glories)
Gently nick or sand the seed coat before soaking or sowing.
Best for: Some flowers, herbs, trees (e.g., lavender, milkweed, echinacea)
Store seeds in moist medium (paper towel or sand in a bag) in the fridge for 2–6 weeks.
Mimics winter conditions.
Warmth: Seeds need warmth more than light to germinate. Use a seedling heat mat if needed.
Moisture: Consistently moist, not soaked. Avoid letting them dry out.
Dark vs. Light: Some seeds need darkness, some need light. Check the packet.
Label everything. It’s easy to mix things up.